Saturday, March 17, 2012

Christmas in Italy: Pisa

When planning out our Italian adventure, we could not find frequent trains traveling from Florence to Pisa, so we had to rent a car for this leg of the trip.  After picking up our car, we soon realized that it did not have a cigarette lighter to plug in our GPS!  Yikes!  Challenge #1 of the day:  finding our way the good old fashioned way, without technology. 

With a little help from the car rental employee, we found Pisa fairly easily.  The famous Leaning Tower was a different story.  I expected to drive into town and bump right into it.  How hard could it be to find a legendary tower in a little Italian city?  Well, Pisa was bigger than I remembered, and we drove in circles trying to find the leaning tower.  Finally, Dan just parked, thinking we might have better luck on foot. 

Soon, Dan approached an Italian man outside of a cafe and asked for directions.  The man did not speak a word of English, but eagerly gestured that he was willing to help.  He smiled and motioned "Let's walk, follow me" with his hands.  Usually, at this point, we've learned from our Turkey travels to say "no thanks" rather than follow a stranger  through a maze of uncharted territory.  But for some reason, this time we followed.  At first I felt (mostly) confident.  Dan seemed to trust him and I trusted Dan.  We walked quickly and silently, as our companion glanced back occasionally to smile and motion "Keep going".  But after 15...25...30 minutes of walking, I began to get nervous.  Where is he leading us? 

Finally, he smiled and motioned "Just around the corner".  I took a deep breath, praying he was right.  Suddenly, the leaning tower peeked out from behind a building as we all heaved a sigh of relief!  Dan offered our guide a tip, he smiled, refused, and disappeared quickly.  It was incredible.  This man walked with us for over 30 minutes, and accepted nothing in return.  God showed His providencial care for us through the kindness and generosity of this stranger. 


We made it!
The Leaning Tower of Pisa

Upon arriving, we happily snapped the "classic Leaning Tower photo pose" with the other tourists...

(Peter was snoozing in the stroller during this time, which enabled us to focus our attention on the perfect Leaning Tower pose.) : )

...and then explored the gorgeous cathedral and baptistry.

Pisa's Cathedral

The Baptistry

The interior of the Cathedral:  incredible!

The Cathedral's Ceiling


Next to the Pisa Cathedral is a cemetary called the "Camposanto" or "Holy Field".  The field is filled with soil from Golgotha (the mount where Christ was crucified). After the First Crusade in 1099, an Archbishop (probably of Pisa) brought back boatloads of soil from Golgotha to Pisa. Where the soil was deposited became a cemetary for the upper class of Pisa. A cloister was built around the field.


Camposanto

We finished our tour of Pisa at dusk.  The setting sun warmed the Leaning Tower with its vibrant pink and orange rays.  Peter was groggily just waking up from a nap.  We bought a miniature Leaning Tower (of course!) and started the trek back to our car.  Fortunately, our walk back to the car was much more relaxing.  We walked through a charming shopping district; full of shoppers, music, and sparkley lights.  We stopped for some tasty pasta and then finished our walk to the car. 
 

We drove to a nearby U.S. Army base (found it successfully...without a GPS...hooray!) and checked-in to our hotel.  Though I love Italy and its B&B's it's always rejuvenating to stay on a military base. It's refreshing to read signs in English and shop for American snacks at the Shopette.  It's just a little taste of home. 

The next destination on our tour of Italy:  Assisi....one of my favorite cities in the world!

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Christmas in Italy: Florence


After yet another delicious breakfast and a lovely stroll through the streets of Venice, we took a water-bus back to the train station (maybe the word "stroll" is a little too romantic...it was a lovely morning, but we were lugging all of our luggage and a toddler-toting-stroller over cobblestone which made it a little more labor intensive).  As we took one last look of the charming city of Venice, Dan and I promised each other that we'd return someday.   

At the station, we purchased our tickets.  We'd discovered that buying train tickets at the counter from a person, rather than the kiosk, was the way to go.  Yes, that meant more waiting in line, but it also guaranteed that we'd make the correct purchase and be directed to the right platform.  We were starting to feel confident in our train traveling skills. 

We loved riding on the trains.  It was a chance for Dan to study maps, for us to soak in the beautiful countryside from our window, and for our family to relax and be together...all with easy access to a bathroom! 



After arriving in Florence, we walked from the train station to our bed and breakfast.  We walked about 15 minutes through the streets of Florence before we caught sight of Florence's famous cathedral, The Duomo, peeking out from behind the other buildings.  Dan and I simultaneously gasped.  The Duomo has one of the largest domes in the world.  It is impossible to capture its magnitude on camera or to describe its grandeur in writing.  It is a thrilling sight to see and we hurried to catch a closer look. 


The exterior of The Duomo is made completely of different colors of marble.  It was incredible! 


After catching some photos of The Duomo, we walked a few blocks to our bed and breakfast, which was located in an Italian couple's apartment.  They buzzed us up to their apartment and welcomed us with open arms.  This was one of my favorite b&b's.  The owners treated us like family, welcoming us with traditional Italian Christmas bread and sugary sweet crimson-red juice that stained our lips for hours.  We sat, munched, and chatted.  After refueling, we began exploring Florence. 

Below is Florence's city square, which has has been the headquarters of Florentine political life for centuries.  In the square stands a replica of the David.  The original sculpture previously stood there before being moved to the Florence Art Museum.

We continued on to the River Arno and caught a view of the Ponte Vecchio.


We then hiked and climbed up, up, up (while singing Must Be Santa to keep Peter entertained) to an overlook called the Ponte di Michaelangelo.  The steep climb was worth the view.  At the overlook, we bought Peter a little Pinnochio puppet...and later found out that the author of Pinnochio was buried on that very mountain!

We climbed higher and higher, but just had to stop for a photo op of beautiful Florence!


The mountain kept on going, but finally we saw the top!  At the top, rested the magnificent Basilica of St. Minias!

St. Minias was from the East and came to Italy for a pilgrimage to Rome. He ended up settling on the mountain south of Florence and establishing a hermitage here. He was eventually captured by the Romans and beheaded on the banks of the Arno River. Legend has it that St. Minias picked up his head and took it up the mountain to his home where he died.

The Basilica of St. Minias now stands over the site of his old home and his tomb.  Inside of the church was quiet and peaceful, away from the noise of the city.


We climbed back down the mountain as the sun was setting.  We had one more stop before dinner, the Basilica di Santa Croce (Holy Cross).  Inside, we found the tombs of Michaelangelo, Galileo Gallilee, and Nicolo Machiavelli!


Our next stop: dinner!  At first, our quest for food was a bit challenging.  Many restaurants in Italy don't open for dinner until 7 pm (not easy when traveling with a toddler)!  But we finally found a perfect little restaurant facing The Duomo.  We feasted on Florentine steaks!


The next morning, our wonderful b&b owners delivered a homemade Italian breakfast to our room, including cappaccinos and scambled eggs!  After breakfast, we walked to the Florence Academy Art Museum, home of the famous sculpture, The David!  After a trip through the museum (it was quick and efficient, as are all museum trips with a two-year-old), we returned to The Duomo to soak in the sights of Florence. 

The most beautiful aspect of our trip was the spiritual significance.  It was incredible to spend the days before Christmas visiting breathtaking basilicas and unforgettable pilgrimage sites.  Instead of shopping malls and presents, we were able to focus as a family on the birth of Christ.  In Italy, there are manger scenes everywhere.  Peter loved studying them.  Often, the crib would be empty, anticipating the birth of Christ.  Peter gazed excitedly at the empty crib as we told him "Baby Jesus is almost here!"  He couldn't wait!  It was so beautiful to see the simple faith of a child!


(As Peter studied each manger scene, he'd point out the figures: "Mary, Joseph, angel, shepherd, cow, sheep..." and then inevitably ask "Horse?  Where'd the horse go?" since most manger scenes did not have a horse. 
I responded "Hmmm....maybe the horse is out eating some hay." 
He seemed content with that answer and at future manger scenes would say "Horse?  Where'd the horse go?  Oh...Hay.")

The doors of The Duomo's Baptistery were incredible!  Here's Peter and Dan finding a carving of Saint Mark, who's tomb we had seen in Venice. 



I love the carving below.  It is the Holy Family's flight to Egypt. 



We wrapped up our quick stay in Florence and grabbed a rental car!  Pisa, here we come!

Sunday, March 4, 2012

Christmas in Italy: Venice


After exploring Padua, we took a quick train ride to Venice.  We stepped out of the train station and the city of Venice immediately charmed us.  It seemed as if we stepped into another world.  The bright sun sparkled on the water as little boats chugged along.  The buildings, so quaint and beautiful, sat afloat on the canal streets. 

We took a "water bus" from the train station to our hotel.  The boat ride was about 45 minutes, but time passed quickly as we soaked up every drop of the charm of Venice.  Our boat stopped near Saint Mark's Square and we toted our luggage to our hotel.   After getting settled, we set out to explore Venice. 


It seemed as if we just couldn't soak up enough of Venice's sights.  We were constantly wide-eyed, trying not to blink, so we would not miss a single thing.  We strolled through narrow, quiet streets lined with little restaurants and designer shops.  We watched gondolas glide through the quiet water-filled canals. 


We approached Saint Mark's Square.  It was bustling with people and pigeons.  Peter generously dozed off to sleep in the stroller as we approached Saint Mark's Basilica.  Ah, a quiet church visit without "shoooshing" Peter (he loves hearing his voice echo in big European Basilicas).  : )  Saint Mark's tomb is located in this gorgeous Basilica!   We soaked up the intricate beauty of the interior of the basilica and prayed before the tomb of Saint Mark, the Gospel writer.  Incredible.



After visiting Saint Mark's Basilica, we took a gondola ride!  Ah, what an incredible experience!  Our gondalier loaned Peter his hat and we glided off into the quiet, narrow canals of Venice.  Even with a toddler on board, it was a wonderfully relaxing experience.  The sound of the water trickling from the gondalier's paddle and the gondala quietly cutting through the water serenaded us. We soaked up the beautiful scenery as the sun started to sink low in the afternoon sky.  Peter enjoyed riding in a boat, but the highlight of his cruise was looking into the waters in search of pieces of floating trash and other objects.  (Fortunately, there was not much trash.  Venice was very clean.) 
As we cruised, Dan and I kept exchanging excited glances and smiles.  I can't believe we are here, in Venice, on a gondola cruise!  It just seemed too dreamlike to be real! 

After our gondola ride, we returned to Saint Mark's Square to relax a bit before dinner.  Peter laughed and laughed as he chased pigeons through the square.  We smiled and smiled as we watched our little boy play innocently and joyfully in the square.  


After playing in Saint Mark's Square, we strolled through the charming side streets of Venice adorned with twinkling lights.  We ate dinner at a little restaurant called Vino Vino.  It was the most perfectly delicious dinner.  My favorite meal of the trip.  We feasted on an incredibly wonderful Caprese salad, perfect red wine, yummy pasta, and mouth-watering tiramisu.  Stupendo!  (Below, a shot of our Caprese salad.  I can't even begin to describe how absolutely perfect it was.  You'll just have to go to Venice and try it yourself.)

After dinner, we happily walked back to our hotel.  We stayed at a wonderful little hotel in between two adorable boutiques and directly across the street from a gorgeous church.  The setting was picture perfect.  We settled into our room, enjoyed a restful night's sleep, and awoke to freshly baked croissants and steaming cappuccinos.  Ah, Italy.  We love you.

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Christmas in Italy: Padua


Day One of our Italy trip...here we go!
We started this trip like most of our trips.  First we hopped on a plane from Adana to Istanbul.  Once we reached Istanbul, we smiled uncomfortably at the passport control man at the airport as he crossly examined our collection of passport stamps ("They've been to Israel and Greece in the past few months?  Grrr...") and then watched as he reluctantly lowered the big, heavy stamp onto our passports once again.  Then it's airport security, change a diaper, and on the plane to Italy!

We landed at the Bergamo airport, near the city of Milan.  After grabbing our bags and a couple of proscuito and cheese sandwiches to go, we started our real adventure: public transportation in Italy.  On this trip, we relied almost completely on public transportation.  Most of the time, it was a thrilling and empowering experience; being able to dive right into a culture and travel as the locals do.  A few times, it made my stomach flutter with nervousness.  But it always worked out.  And it proved to be an incredible experience of God's providencial care for us.  We felt His guiding hand every step of the way. 

Public transportation mission #1:  take a public bus from the airport to the train station. 
We found our bus stop outside of the airport (with a little help from an airport employee) and waited.  And waited.  And waited.  Finally, we found another bus that was headed for the train station.  Perfect.  The bus was packed full, so I sat in the back in between two Italian men while Dan and Peter were smooshed somewhere in the middle.  No problem, should be a short ride.  Or so we thought.  Almost an hour later, we did indeed arrive at a train station.  We ended up at the Milan station rather than the Bergamo station.  We had to backtrack a little, but not too bad for our first day.

Next, we found our way around the big Milan train station.  Intimidating.  It seemed as if everyone else in the bustling crowds of people knew exactly what to do and where to go, and we felt completely lost.  We found a kiosk and bought some tickets.  A homeless man laughed at us while we made the purchase (which didn't exactly instill confidence).  Then, we wandered until we found someone official looking to help us find our train platform.  She ended up being grumpy and telling us the wrong platform, but we figured it out and ended up safely on our train to Padua.  Phew!  We rode several hours to Padua, then took a taxi to our hotel.  It had been a long day of travel!

We awoke the next morning refreshed and ready to go!  After a cappuccino and a delicious breakfast, we walked to the bus station to start our touring.  We waited a bit for a bus until we realized that you have to step out into traffic and hail the bus in order for it to stop.  Just standing at the bus stop didn't do the trick.  No wonder those buses passed us!  It also took us awhile to figure out how to buy tickets, the little machine was broken, so we bought them from the driver. 

Our first stop was the Basilica of Saint Justina, dedicated to a Roman woman who was martyred in Padua. 



Inside of the church were the relics of Saint Matthias the Apostle.  We had also seen some of his relics in Germany and would soon see his relics in Rome as well. 


We next saw the high altar of the Basilica.  Saint Justina's relics are held in a reliquary behind this altar. 


And next, we saw the tomb of Saint Luke the Evangelist!  Saint Luke wrote a Gospel and the Acts of the Apostles.  What an incredible experience to be right next to one of the Gospel writers!  Saint Luke was also an artist.  It is believed that the painting of Mary above his tomb was painted by Saint Luke!  In the picture below, Peter is examining an icon of Saint Luke in his hands. 

After a busy morning, we stopped at a pizzeria!  Mmmm....it was so delicious!  They had 41different kinds of pizza!  The most exotic pizza on the menu was horsemeat.  Neither of us were feeling that brave.  Dan had an anchovie pizza and I had sausage.  Perfecto!  The crust was so thin and the toppings so fresh!  The perfect lunch!


After lunch, we strolled through the beautiful town square.  We enjoyed browsing through the little treasures at a local flea market in the square.  Peter chased pigeons, got his pants and mittens muddy, and enjoyed being out of the stroller. 


Our final stop for the day was at the Basilica of Saint Anthony of Padua.  Saint Anthony was a holy Franciscan who was famous for his inspiring preaching and many miracles.  The inside of the church was breathtaking.  Saint Anthony's tomb is located inside of the church, surrounded by crutches, letters, and other proofs of miracles God has performed through his intercession.  Inside of the church is also Saint Anthony's incorrupt tongue and jaw bone!  When Saint Anthony was being considered for canonization, they discovered that his tongue and jaw bone had never decayed!  A miracle God performed to show that his words and preaching honored God during his lifetime.  It was incredible to see!


We stopped at a unique and beautiful sculpture in the courtyard by the basilica.  It shows that Saint Anthony's prayers lead us to Christ.  Holding Saint Anthony's right hand is Little Jesus, holding his left hand is little Peter.  : )



Another one of the beautiful things about St. Anthony's Church was the number of people who came to Sunday Evening Mass.  One of the things we've always heard about churches in Europe is "they're always empty" or "Europeans don't attend church anymore."  St. Anthony's Basilica was PACKED with faithful Catholics who had come together for Mass to share in the Eucharist.  We were thrilled to see all the faithful and prayed for the success of the Church in Europe for the rest of our trip.

Sunday, February 26, 2012

Christmas in Italy

Oh, Italy.  How we love you.
We love the breathtaking scenery.  We love the food.  We love the wine.  We love the Catholic culture and splendid churches around every corner.  We just love Italy.

This Christmas, we spent an unforgettable 10 days traveling across Italy.  We flew into Milan and hopped on a train to Padua.  Our next train took us to the magical city of Venice.  Then, we rode by train to Florence.  We then picked up a rental car and traveled to Pisa and Assisi.  Our final train took us to Rome, where we attended Christmas Eve Midnight Mass with the Holy Father, Pope Benedict XVI.  We will try to squeeze every wonderful detail of our experiences in Italy into future blogs, one city at a time. 

Here's a little preview of our trip...

Mmmm....Italian food.  Almost every dinner we ate consisted of glorious, beautiful pasta...




....and more pasta....


...and more pasta!


We balanced out our carb-fest with a daily dose of Italian cappacinnos!  Our adorable Italian hotels made us fresh cappacinnos every morning.  Those Italians know how to do coffee!


We traveled almost everywhere by train.  We loved the train system in Italy.  It's user-friendly, quick, and much more fun than a rental car!  Peter is a huge fan of Thomas the Train books right now, so riding on the trains was a thrill for him!  We all had a wonderful time! 



"Off we go!  Where will our next adventure take us?"

Thursday, February 9, 2012

Toddler Bowling (It can be done!)


Several months ago, a friend of mine proposed a playgroup idea.  "Let's try the bowling alley!" she boldly announced.  I was a little unsure of the idea.  I couldn't see how multiple toddlers running around on slippery floors with 6 lb balls in their hands could end up being a positive experience.  However, when you live on a teeny tiny military base in the Middle East with limited activities, you're willing to try anything!  So we tried it!  A group of brave, bold moms brought about 10 toddlers to the bowling alley for a morning playdate.  The result: absolute success!  Sure, they needed lots of help and supervision, but the bowling alley proved to be fairly kid-friendly.  They supplied bumpers in the lanes and metal ramps to help kids push the balls.  Peter and his friends had a blast! 

Our successful bowling adventure started something.  Since then, we've returned as a family to bowl (How fun!  I hadn't bowled since high school!) and several of Peter's friends have had bowling birthday parties!  Every time we go with Peter, he is on cloud 9.  He takes such joy in rolling the big ball down the lane.  It's precious. 



When Peter bowls with Daddy, he skips the child ramp and has Daddy help instead.  It is so sweet to see them heave the heavy ball down the lane and then watch in anticipation as it rolls to the pins. : )


After the ball hits the pins, Peter yells joyfully, jumps, and claps...regardless of how many pins are hit.  Pure Happiness.


He then races back to retreive his ball (which usually startles him a bit when it pops up). 



Do you remember how I mentioned that I hadn't bowled since high school?  It looks like Mommy needs to lace up her bowling shoes more often and practice!